Peter Elbling

Rafioli Commun De Herbe Vanzati (Mint and Spinach Ravioli)

This is plain old spinach ravioli, but with exotic flavorings. The pinches of spice at the end are important. From the 14th-Century anonymous work "Libro per Cuoco".

1 (10-ounce) bag spinach leaves, chopped, about 6 cups loosely packed
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
1/4 cup chopped parsley
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/2 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
Ground cinnamon
Ground ginger
Ground cumin
Salt, pepper
Ravioli dough
Boiling salted water
Parmesan cheese, grated

Saute spinach, mint and parsley in olive oil until spinach is wilted. Let cool. Stir in egg, mozzarella,1/8 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/8 teaspoon ginger, 1/8 teaspoon cumin and salt and pepper to taste.

Divide Ravioli Dough into 8 portions. Roll each piece through pasta machine on successively finer settings into thin sheets, about 4 inches wide and 16 to 18 inches long. Spread 1 pasta sheet on floured work surface. Place filling by teaspoons a 8 regular intervals about 2 inches apart, 1 inch from right-hand long edge of sheet. Lightly moisten pasta around fillings. Fold left half of pasta over filling. Carefully squeezing out all air pockets. Seal between fillings by pressing firmly with sides of hands. Cut into 8 (2-inch) squares with filling in center of each. Transfer to floured cloth. Repeat with remaining sheets of dough.

Cook ravioli in boiling salted water until they float to surface, about 5 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon and drain in colander. Serve sprinkled with cinnamon, ginger cumin and grated Parmesan cheese to taste. Makes 8 servings.

Ravioli Dough

2 cups unbleached flour
2 extra large eggs
1 tablespoon olive oil.

Place flour in food processor bowl fitted with metal blade. Beat eggs and olive oil in small bowl until blended, then add to food processor with motor running. Process until dough forms ball and is very smooth. Turn dough out onto lightly floured work surface. Knead well, adding small amounts of flour as needed to keep from sticking to hands and surface, until dough is smooth and very elastic. Let dough stand 20 to 30 minutes before rolling out.

Each servings contains about 224 calories; 137 mg sodium, 110 mg cholesterol; 9 grams of fat, 26 grams carbohydrates; 9 grams protein;0.5 gram fiber.

Enjoy!

Torta Bononiensis (Chard Pie)

Taken from the famous 1446 "De Honesta Voluptate" (Dishes of Lawful Pleasure) by Bartolommeo Sacchi. Better known as Platina, (Dish) because of the cookbook, Bartolommeo wrote it to impress two cardinals he had run afoul of. A librarian and a scholar, but not a cook, this was one of the dishes that he lifted unchanged, from Maestro Martino, who was a cook. Martino called it plain old Torta Bolognese.

6 tablespoons of butter
1 ½ cups flour
¼ teaspoon salt
4 to 5 tablespoons of ice water
Chard filling
1 egg
1 teaspoon water
1/8 teaspoon saffron threads

Cut butter into flour and salt until particles are size of small peas. Sprinkle with ice water and quickly stir with fork until dough is evenly moistened and will form into a ball. On lightly floured board, roll out about ¾ of dough to fit bottom and sides of 9-inch tart pan. Trim edges. Roll out remaining dough and cut into about ½-inch-wide lattice strips. Fill tart with Chard Filling. Arrange lattice strips crisscross on top. Blend egg with 1 teaspoon water and saffron threads and brush on pastry.

Bake at 350 degrees 30 to 35 minutes or until filling is puffed and crust is browned. Remove tart from pan to baking sheet during last 5 minutes. Brush sides with remaining saffron-egg mixture and finish baking. Make 6 servings.

Chard Filling

1 bunch Swiss chard, tough stems removed, chopped, about 5 cups
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon saffron threads, loosely packed
¼ cup chopped parsley
2 tablespoons minced fresh marjoram leaves
Salt, pepper
3 eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup ricotta cheese
½ cup mozzarella cheese, shredded

Saute chard in butter until tender. Crush saffron and stir in. Stir in parsley and marjoram. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let stand until just warm. Mix with eggs, ricotta and mozzarella cheeses.

Each serving contains about: 371 calories; 491 mg sodium; 230 mg cholesterol; 23 grams fat; 27 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams protein; 0.4 gram fiber.

Enjoy!

Polpette Grigliate (Spiced Scaloppine)

To the modern taste, the most appealing part of this recipe is probably the pan juices fragrant with garlic and fennel. Use the Salsa Camelino sparingly; it's very sweet. This recipe comes from "Libro Novo nel Qual s'Insegna a Far d'Ogni Sorte di Vivande," by Cristofaro Messisbugo, published in 1557.

12 thin slices veal for scaloppine
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1 ½ teaspoons fennel seeds, ground
Salt, pepper
6 tablespoons white wine vinegar
6 tablespoons butter
Salsa Camelino

Pound veal to flatten. Rub garlic, fennel and salt and pepper to taste over all sides of meat. Place in shallow dish, sprinkle with vinegar and marinate 30 minutes.

Heat butter in skillet until sizzling. Add meat and saute quickly on both sides in several batches until lightly browned, about 1 minute per side.

Remove to platter. Spoon pan juices over meant. Spoon some Salsa Camelino on top, if desired, and serve remaining on side. Makes 4 servings.

Salsa Camelino

½ cup golden raisins
½ cup Marsala wine
2 to 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
3 tablespoons fresh bread crumbs
1 tablespoon honey
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
Dash ground ginger
Dash ground cloves

Chop raisins coarsely. Add to small saucepan with wine and vinegar. Heat to boiling. Stir in bread crumbs, honey, cinnamon, pepper, ginger and cloves. Simmer 1 to 2 minutes. Makes about ½ cup.

Polpette Grigliate (Grilled Saltimbocca)

Another scaloppine recipe from Messisbugo, again sweetened with raisins and fragrant with fennel and garlic, but this time with a rich cheese filling.

8 thin slices veal for scaloppine
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
Salt, pepper
Cheese Filling

Marinate veal with vinegar and salt and pepper to taste 1 hour. Pat dry with paper towels. Spoon about 2 tablespoons Cheese Filling on each slice and roll up. Grill quickly over high heat, turning to cook evenly, until meat is browned and Cheese Filling is melted. Makes 8 appetizer servings.

Cheese Filling

1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
½ cup seedless raisins, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed
2 egg yolks, lightly beaten
Salt, pepper

Mix mozzarella, raisins, parsley, garlic, fennel and egg yolks. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Each serving contains about: 119 calories; 164 mg sodium; 102 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 0.2 gram fiber.

Enjoy!

Pollo Fricto Con Limone (Chicken Fried with Diced Lemon)

A strange but surprisingly tasty dish. From Messisbugo 1557.

1 chicken cut up
Salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 ½ lemons
3 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon peppercorns, freshly ground

Rub chicken with salt to taste and brown in olive oil. Drain off excess oil.

Squeeze juice of 3 lemons and cut remaining 1 ½ lemons into ½-inch dice. Add lemon juice and diced lemons to pan, cover and simmer 15 minutes. Uncover and simmer 5 to 10 minutes longer, turning chicken to glaze all sides.

Combine sugar and ground peppercorns and pass with chicken for diners to season to taste. Makes 4 servings.

Each serving contains about: 393 calories; 158 mg sodium; 90 mg cholesterol; 28 grams fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 22 grams protein; 0 fiber.

Enjoy!

Verze Piene (Cabbage Stuffed with Walnuts)

Again from Messisbugo 1557.

2 cups ground walnuts
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon minced fresh sage
¼ teaspoon crushed saffron threads
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon black pepper
3 eggs, lightly beaten
6 large cabbage leaves
5 cups chicken broth
1 cup diced cooked ham
¼ cup mined parsley

Combine walnuts, Parmesan, garlic, ginger, sage, saffron, cloves, pepper and eggs. Blanch cabbage leaves until tender in boiling water. Drain leaves. Spoon about ¼ cup filling into each leaf and roll up.

Combine chicken broth, ham and parsley in large pot. Bring to boil, reduce heat and add cabbage rolls. Cover and simmer 30 minutes. Serve in shallow bowls with broth and ham. Makes 6 servings.

Each serving contains about: 413 calories; 1,143 mg sodium; 127 mg cholesterol; 33 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 21 grams protein; 2 grams fiber.

Enjoy!

Torta De Cerase (Cherry Cheesecake)

Cheesecakes have been made in Italy since Roman times. This one seems almost modern. From Maestro Martino's "Libro de Arte Coquinaria", mid 15th Century.

2 ¼ cups flour
¼ cup sugar
½ teaspoon salt
¾ cup butter, cut up
3 eggs yolks, lightly beaten
¼ cup Marsala wine
Cherry-Cheese Filling
Fresh Bing cherries for garnish, optional

Combine flour, sugar and salt. Cut in butter until particles are size of small peas. Combine egg yolks and Marsala. Stir in quickly with fork until dough is evenly moistened and will form into ball.

On lightly floured board, roll out dough to fit bottom and sides of 9-inch springform pan. Place in pan, bringing sides up to about 1 inch below top edge. Chill until dough is firm.

Spread Cherry Cheese Filling evenly into crust and smooth top. Bake at 350 degrees 50 to 60 minutes or until center is set. Remove and allow to cool. Remove from springform pan. Garnish with fresh cherries. Makes 20 servings.

Cherry-Cheese Filling

5 cups ricotta cheese
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup sugar
3 eggs
2 tablespoons minced crystallized ginger
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon white pepper
1 (1-pound) can dark sweet pitted cherries, drained and halved

Beat together ricotta, Parmesan cheese and sugar in large mixer bowl of food processor. Beat in eggs, 1 at a time, until blended. Beat in ginger, cinnamon and white pepper. Fold in drained cherries.

Each serving contains about: 274 calories; 263 mg sodium; 112 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 25 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; trace fiber.

Enjoy!

Suppa Dorata (Saffron 'French Toast')

The luxurious ancestor of the French pain perdu or pain doree; really quite golden in color when you add the saffron-colored syrup. From Maestro Martino, Mid 15th Century.

3 eggs, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons sugar
½ teaspoon rose water
4 slices bread (1/2-inch thick), crusts removed and quartered
1 ½ to 2 tablespoons butter
Saffron syrup

Combine eggs, sugar and rose water. Soak slices in mixture just until absorbed. Heat butter in skillet. Fry toast until golden brown on both sides. Serve with saffron syrup. Makes 4 servings.

Saffron Syrup

1 cup water
1 cup sugar
Dash saffron threads
¼ teaspoon rose water

Cook water, sugar and saffron to syrup stage, 230 to 234 degrees. Let cool and stir in rose water. Makes 1 ¼ cups.

Each serving contains about: 366 calories; 218 mg sodium; 172 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 66 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; trace fiber.

Used by permission of Charles Perry and the Los Angles Times.

Enjoy!